We did the Yucatán over three weeks in March, in the dry season, moving between spots by ferry and private shuttle van instead of driving ourselves. Most of what people picture when they picture Mexico's Caribbean coast — the resorts, the crowds, the price tags — is real here, and it's why this stretch reads as $$$ rather than the bargain a lot of Mexico can be.

What we'd come back for is the food. It was the best we ate anywhere on this leg of the trip. The beaches were the letdown: sargassum piled up on the mainland the whole time we were there, and only Isla Mujeres stayed clear. A couple of things are worth knowing before you go — we had our cards skimmed twice, and there's a visible military presence that can catch you off guard. None of it matched the fear the news sells about Mexico. Come hungry, keep your expectations low on the water, and pay in cash.