The first time we crossed the border from Costa Rica into Nicaragua, we honestly weren't sure what to expect. The media painted pictures of political unrest and danger, but our friends kept insisting we were missing out on something special. After five separate trips spanning several years, we can say definitively: our friends were right.

The Granada Revelation

Picture this: you're walking down cobblestone streets where every building looks like it was painted by an artist obsessed with color. The orange house next to the turquoise one, beside the deep red colonial mansion. This was our first glimpse of Granada, and we knew immediately we'd found something magical.

Our taxi dropped us at what would become our home base – Tesoro Dorado, a Spanish colonial Airbnb that felt like stepping into a historical novel. The massive wooden doors opened to reveal a central courtyard where a swimming pool reflected the sky above. Each of the three bedrooms had its own bathroom and air conditioning (essential in Nicaragua's heat), but the real treasure was the rooftop terrace where we'd spend evenings watching the cathedral's bell tower catch the sunset.

When Dinner Costs Less Than Coffee Back Home

That first night, we stumbled upon El Zaguan, tucked behind the cathedral on a quiet side street. The waiter brought us menus, and we did double-takes at the prices. Filet mignon for $16.50? In Costa Rica, we'd pay double that for a much smaller portion. When the food arrived, we understood why locals had been raving about this place. The beef was so tender you could cut it with a fork – a stark contrast to the tough cuts we'd grown accustomed to elsewhere in Central America.

Over multiple visits, El Zaguan became our tradition. Whether we were celebrating a successful day of filming or just craving excellent food at impossible prices, we knew exactly where to go. The staff began recognizing us, greeting us like old friends returning home.

The Walking Street Discovery

Three blocks from our Airbnb lay Granada's famous Walking Street – a pedestrian zone lined with restaurants and bars. During high season, it buzzes with energy, but we discovered its quieter charm during off-season visits. Fewer crowds meant longer conversations with restaurant owners, better service, and a more intimate glimpse into daily Nicaraguan life.

One evening, while filming at Nectar (one of our favorite spots for its variety of cocktails and vegetarian options), a young man approached our table. Juan Carlos, deaf but able to read lips, recognized us from previous visits four years earlier. He remembered the boys buying bracelets from him, and the reunion turned into an impromptu bracelet-making lesson right there on the street. These are the moments you can't plan but that make travel truly meaningful.

Ometepe Island: Where Volcanoes Meet Lake Waters

The ferry ride to Ometepe Island across Lake Nicaragua builds anticipation like few journeys can. Two volcanic peaks rise from the water ahead – Concepción and Maderas – connected by a narrow isthmus to form one remarkable island. At 1,610 meters above sea level, this makes Ometepe the world's highest freshwater island.

Two Hotels, Two Personalities

We deliberately stayed on both sides of the island to experience its dual nature. Hotel Victoria on the Moyogalpa side offered family-run hospitality with individual casitas facing the volcanic slopes. Mornings began with coffee on our private terrace, watching farmers plow their fields with horses while the volcano loomed majestically behind them.

The Xali Hotel on the opposite shore provided a completely different vibe. Perched right on Lake Nicaragua's edge, constant breezes made even the hottest days comfortable. The modern rooms faced the water, and we'd fall asleep to gentle waves lapping the shore.

The Coco Loco Chronicles

Every traveler to Ometepe talks about Ojo de Agua, but nothing really prepares you for the reality. Hidden deep in jungle canopy, this spring-fed lagoon feels like discovering a secret swimming hole from childhood dreams. The rope swing alone would make it memorable, but then there are the Coco Locos.

Picture a fresh coconut, machete-opened by skilled hands, filled with white rum, coconut cream, and local spices. The bartender hands it to you, you take a sip, and he asks, "More rum?" By the third Coco Loco, you understand why people plan entire vacations around this single spot. We spent entire afternoons here, swimming in the refreshing spring water, watching monkeys in the canopy above, and making friends with travelers from around the world.

The $10 entrance fee includes a $5 food credit, making it essentially a $5 all-day pass to paradise. The restaurant serves solid local dishes, but honestly, after a couple Coco Locos, everything tastes incredible.

Island Life Moments

Some of our best memories came from unplanned encounters. Walking along the lakeshore, we met fishermen using traditional net techniques passed down through generations. They patiently explained their methods in broken English mixed with Spanish, letting the boys try to help pull in their nets heavy with tiny silver fish.

At a roadside stand, an elderly woman dried corn in the sun while her cows wandered freely, occasionally stealing mouthfuls of grain. When she shooed them away, laughing and shaking her head, we realized we were witnessing daily rural life unchanged for decades.

The Volcano That Puts Disney to Shame

Masaya Volcano delivers an experience no theme park could replicate. Standing on the rim of an active volcano, watching molten lava bubble and churn far below, triggers something primal. The heat radiates up from the crater, and sulfur fumes sting your eyes, but you can't look away.

We visited twice – once during the day to appreciate the dramatic landscape, and once at night for the full lava show. Both times left us speechless, though for different reasons. Daytime revealed the geological violence that created this landscape – jagged rocks scattered across barren slopes, testament to past eruptions. At night, the lava glowed like liquid fire against the darkness.

Pro tip: Bring old COVID masks if you have them. When wind conditions shift, sulfur fumes become overwhelming quickly. Twenty minutes is about the maximum safe exposure time, but those twenty minutes will stay with you forever.

Market Adventures in Masaya

The artisanal market in Masaya occupies an old Spanish fort, creating one of the most atmospheric shopping experiences we've encountered. Thick stone walls house dozens of stalls selling everything from hand-tooled leather goods to traditional pottery.

We spent hours wandering the corridors, eventually purchasing genuine leather handbags and handwoven textiles at prices that seemed almost insulting to the craftspeople. A leather purse that would cost $200 in North America sold for $35. The quality was immediately apparent – you could smell the genuine leather, feel the careful stitching, see the attention to detail.

One vendor demonstrated traditional weaving techniques while another explained the curing process for leather goods. These weren't just shopping transactions; they were cultural exchanges that helped us understand Nicaragua's rich artisan traditions.

The $100 Challenge Reality Check

During one Granada visit, we attempted our "$100 Challenge" – seeing how far a hundred dollars would stretch for two people over an entire day. Starting with breakfast at Garden Cafe (a higher-end spot catering to international tastes), we spent $23 for fresh juices, a breakfast burrito, and the "Gringo breakfast" with proper bacon.

A spa pedicure cost just $19, and we tipped $3 for exceptional service. Street coconuts were $1 each, and even at Selina Hotel's upscale rooftop bar, cocktails ran only $5 compared to $12-15 in Costa Rica.

We technically went slightly over budget at $103, but that included buying handmade bracelets from Juan Carlos and drinks at Granada's most expensive hotel bar. Budget-conscious travelers could easily stay well under $100 while enjoying excellent food, activities, and local experiences.

Beyond the Headlines

Here's what the media doesn't tell you about Nicaragua: the people are exceptionally friendly and welcoming. Every interaction, from taxi drivers to restaurant servers to random strangers on the street, reinforced this reality. Children wave enthusiastically at obvious tourists. Shopkeepers go out of their way to help you find what you need. Restaurant owners sit down to chat about their families and dreams.

We walked Granada's streets at night, swam alone at remote beaches, and never once felt unsafe. Standard travel precautions apply anywhere, but the security concerns dominating international coverage simply didn't match our extensive ground experience.

Staying Connected While Exploring

One challenge we discovered during our early Nicaragua trips: our Costa Rican phone service simply didn't work across the border. We'd arrive in Granada completely disconnected, scrambling to find WiFi at restaurants just to coordinate basic logistics like taxi pickups.

By our later visits in 2022, we'd partnered with Holafly for their eSIM service, which completely transformed our Nicaragua experiences. Instead of hunting for plastic SIM cards at border crossings or trying to navigate local carrier shops in Spanish, we could set up connectivity before even leaving Costa Rica.

The beauty of eSIM technology is its simplicity – scan a QR code, follow the setup prompts, and have instant connectivity the moment you cross the border. For Nicaragua specifically, we found their regional Central America plan most practical, covering our base in Costa Rica and extending seamlessly into Nicaragua and beyond.

Having reliable internet meant we could use WhatsApp to coordinate with taxi drivers on Ometepe Island, access maps for navigation through Granada's winding streets, and even upload content to social media from remote locations like the Masaya volcano rim. The peace of mind alone justified the cost – knowing we could call for help or navigate unfamiliar areas without hunting for WiFi hotspots.

Pro tip: Download offline maps before relying entirely on mobile data, especially on Ometepe Island where coverage can be spotty in remote areas.

The Transportation Truth

Getting around Nicaragua requires some planning but presents no major challenges. Rental cars are available, though road quality varies significantly. We found shuttle services like Gabby Transport reliable for longer distances, while local taxis (bookable via WhatsApp) handle shorter trips efficiently.

The ferry to Ometepe runs regularly from San Jorge, taking about an hour each way. Arrive early for better seating options, but even standing room provides great lake views during the crossing.

Why Nicaragua Became Our Obsession

After five trips, we keep returning because Nicaragua delivers experiences you simply cannot find elsewhere. Where else can you stand on an active volcano's rim, swim in a jungle lagoon, explore perfectly preserved colonial architecture, and do it all for less than you'd spend on a weekend in most Western cities?

The country offers that increasingly rare combination: authentic cultural experiences at prices that make extended stays feasible. Whether you're drawn to historical architecture, natural wonders, adventure activities, or cultural immersion, Nicaragua provides depth and variety that rewards multiple visits.

More importantly, Nicaragua taught us to look beyond headlines and form our own opinions. The gap between media portrayal and on-ground reality reminded us why travel matters – not just for the experiences we gain, but for the perspectives we develop and the preconceptions we shed.

Ready to explore Nicaragua yourself? Start with at least a week – three days in Granada, three on Ometepe Island, and one for Masaya's markets and volcano. Trust us: you'll start planning your return trip before you even leave.

Watch Our Nicaragua Adventures: Want to see these experiences in action? Check out our complete Nicaragua video series on YouTube: Nicaragua Travel Playlist – from horse-drawn carriage tours through Granada's colonial streets to rope swinging into jungle lagoons on Ometepe Island.